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Thread: HUBERTUS by Imman Meffert

  1. #41
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    Ok, waiting Axel's verdict...

  2. #42
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    Mike is right.

  3. #43
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    DSC_1025.jpgif I right understand, cartridge 11,15 x 60R has 25 grams bullet and 5 grams of black powder. My bullet from bullet mold is 20-21 grams, so I must put 20 grams of black powder? Am I right ??

  4. #44
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    MARAT,
    I stay away from black powder, for my own handloading of cartridges; so you would be much better served by other people's advice. Several of the others have experience loading black powder, I believe Diz,Jon,Axel, Steve and others have experience; but I believe Sharps4590 has considerable experience loading blackpowder for competition. I will make a couple points, however. Your question makes it seem that you believe you should use the same charge weight of blackpowder in a cartridge, as the bullet weight. While I remember an old "rule of thumb" for round ball muzzle loading rifles, that the powder should cover the ball( in the hand), this does not apply to cartridges at all, and would apply to volume rather than weight, anyway. The second point is, while the chart you posted is very interesting; you cannot use it directly for loading data. My friends that do use considerable amounts of blackpowder, inform me that the powders available today are considerably different that the older powders, which were often cleaner and more powerful. This makes it even more important to listen to the people that are experienced with powder that is available today.
    Mike

  5. #45
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    Marat, you apparently misinterpreted the old DWM catalog page. It is to be read: DWM order number 174: 11.15x60R, loaded with 5 gramm black powder and a lead bullet 27.5 mm long, bullet weight 25 gramm. As any black powder load fills the case completely, you should stick to a 5 gramm maximum, regardless of the lead bullet weight.

  6. #46
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    Yes, of course, there was mistake 4 grams of black powder for 20 gram bullet.
    Thank you for yours answers.
    But if I put 5 gram of powder for 20 gram bullet, velocity of bullet must be higher?!
    Excuse my, I am layman in reloading...

  7. #47
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    Black powder is a completely different beast from smokeless and, as Mike mentioned, the black of today is not the same as the black from the 1870's or 1880's. It generally burns dryer and leaves a harder fouling. The actual weight charge of black powder can be ignored as you want a charge that fills the case up to the bottom of the bullet when compressed about 1/10 to 1/8 of an inch. That is achieved by experimenting and adjusting your powder measure. You do NOT want any air space. There also needs to be a card wad between the powder and bullet to protect the bullet base. I use a plain card wad of about .020 and it's worked fine for 30+ years. Best results are often obtained by loading the charge into the case with the use of a 24 inch drop tube. One may also need to add a "grease cookie" which is nothing more than a pea sized pellet of bullet lube between two .020 wads. I have only found the grease cookie necessary when the bullet does not carry enough lube in its grooves, generally smaller caliber cartridges. My 43 Mauser, 45-90 and 40-70 do not require a grease cookie but my 9.3 X 62R does as does my 45-100. The bullet lube should also be quite soft so it combines with the fouling and keeps it as soft as possible.

    Mine isn't the only way to achieve good and often excellent results with black powder but it sure works good for me.
    Last edited by sharps4590; 03-01-2016 at 12:30 PM. Reason: missed word.

  8. #48
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    Sharps 4590!
    thank you!

  9. #49
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    MARAT,
    Sharps4590 didn't mention( likely because it is "common knowledge" in the US) that in addition to being soft, the lube must not contain any petroleum products, such as Alox. These products are said to make the residue hard.
    Mike

  10. #50
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    Mike is exactly right on both counts, thank you for adding that. I didn't think to mention it and I should have. We can buy black powder lubes here but you can make your own lube for black powder quite easily if you have access to beeswax. Start at about a 50/50 mix of beeswax and a "natural" oil such as castor oil, sweet oil, some use olive oil but I think that's expensive. I have never tried it but imagine plain old vegetable oil would work too as long as it doesn't have salt in it. If it's too hard, like in the winter, or too soft in summer you can adjust the percentages to work any season.

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